
The Craft
Tussar Silk Handloom
Central and Eastern India
The Golden Textile of India
Tussar silk, also known as Kosa in Sanskrit, is made from fibres collected from Antheraea mylitta moths, which feed on the leaves of jamun and oak trees. The silk has a grainy texture and golden glow as compared to mulberry silk. Traditionally, tussar silk is harvested in Bihar, West Bengal, and Odisha. In recent years, Madhya Pradesh and Jharkhand too have started growing this variety of silk. Jharkhand has emerged as one of the largest sericulture centres with the active involvement of the Kharsawa community.

The Making
The colour of tussar depends on the climate and the diet of the silkworms. Natural tussar can come in off-white, cream, honey, beige, tan, or golden colours. Some common motifs on tussar silk saris include flowers, fishes, tortoises, and geometric patterns. However, the curvilinear and nature-inspired designs of Odisha are seen prominently on this fabric. Tussar is used as a base for a variety of weaves. The Assamese variant, geecha, is sometimes woven with a slightly stiffer unwashed yarn for a unique texture. Tussar from Gopalpur in Odisha attributes its special sheen to the use of Brahmani River water in the making process. The Keonjhar and Mayurbhanj districts of Bihar are also rich in tussar production.
The Legacy
When the Portuguese first arrived in India, during the 16th and 17th centuries, they commissioned clothing in India, which was a hybrid mix of European styles and Indian techniques. For example, Spanish capes were made in Bengal by mixing cotton with tussar. They were soon declared as exquisite merchandise and even gifted as part of diplomatic efforts.

Memory Vault
Odisha’s complex Pattachitra paintings are made on tussar silk. Other crafts that use tussar silk include Rajasthani hand-block printing, Kalamkari of Andhra Pradesh and Ajrakh of Kachchh. The tussar traditions from the Gopalpur district of Odisha received the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2009.
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