Patola’s World Famous Tye-Dye Weaves
Patola handloom, also known as Double Ikat, is a meticulous technique of tie-resist-dyeing in cotton and silk. It is believed to have originated in the Patan region of Gujarat, which remains the only centre of this weaving technique in India.
The Making
To weave a Patola, each warp and weft is tied with a cotton string. Then, the textile is tied, untied, re-tied and dyed again in different colours. This laborious process can take up to 75 days for a single length of textile. Traditionally, only natural dyes are used. One distinct feature is that both sides of a finished Patola textile look alike. Prominent motifs include parrots, flowers, elephants, dancing figures and geometric patterns.
The Legacy
This craft is practised by the Salvi community of Maharashtra, who migrated to Gujarat in the 12th century to live under the patronage of the Chaulukya Rajput kings. As early as the 13th and 14th centuries, Patola was exported to Indonesia and other parts of Southeast Asia to be worn for ceremonies. A Geographical Indication (GI) tag was granted to the Patan weaving style in 2013.