Woven symbols of Odisha’s crafts heritage
Ikat is also referred to as "bandha" in Odisha, where it is primarily practised by the Bhulia, Kostha Asani and Patara communities. Nuapatna and Sambalpur are the major centres of the craft. Weavers use a unique resist dyeing technique, tie-dyeing the warp and weft threads before weaving, that sets it apart from other Indian Ikat traditions. Ikat saris feature brocade bands on the borders and pallu, sometimes with feathered edges and curvilinear designs.
The Making
Crafting Ikat fabrics requires incredible skill. Weavers have been following an eight-stage process of tying and dyeing the yarn for generations. Two weavers work together on a single sari, which takes about seven months to complete. Notably, the completed fabric showcases the same design in the front and back, without using added yarn. Some popular bandha sari types are Sambalpuri, Khandua, Pasapali, Kataki and Maniabandha.
The Legacy
An integral part of Odisha’s heritage, Ikat is connected to followers of Lord Jagannath. The textile uses colours like white, black, yellow, red and green, which have symbolic meanings and represent the past, present, future, the Vedas and the gods. This is also why temple architecture appears in the designs. The artists connect motifs of birds and animals, rudraksh beads, geometric patterns and dice with temple towers and pinnacles. The double Ikat technique of Sambalpur is renowned for its unique patterns. Ikat from Odisha was certified with the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2007.
Memory Vault
Master weaver Surender Meher's creations appear in the collections of National Crafts Museum & Hastkala Academy in New Delhi and the Asian Arts Museum in San Francisco. He is a part of the Meher community of Odisha’s Barpali district, world famous for the Sambalpuri Ikat. The son of Kunja Bihari Meher, a renowned weaver and Padma Shri recipient, Surender has received the National Award, and three consecutive Odisha State Awards.
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