
The Craft
Mangalagiri Handlooms
Andhra Pradesh
Mangalgiri and the Borders of Beauty
Mangalagiri in Andhra Pradesh is known for its paddy cultivation and exquisite handloom saris. Historical inscriptions dating back to 1593, refer to the migration of local weavers due to burdensome taxes imposed by the Qutub Shahi rulers. This resulted in a severe blow to the weaving industry, but the tax was eventually withdrawn.

The Making
The artisans weave with a warp and weft method that uses pit looms, and sometimes jacquard weaving. The dyed cotton yarn is wound into a warp and weft using a charka, shift bamboo, bobbin and pirn (rod around which a weft thread is wound). The warp extension is made suitable for weaving by spraying rice congee (starchy broth). These saris feature brocade borders and pallu with lustrous zari stripes, also called the Nizam border. The body of the sari is usually minimal, without any patterns or motifs. Weavers can take two to three days to finish a six-yard sari.
The Legacy
These saris were originally worn during rituals and visits to the Panakala Narasimha Swamy Temple. It was customary to buy a sari from a local craftsman after the temple visit. The Mangalagiri textile was certified with the Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2013. This helped empower the 5,000 skilled weavers who continue to produce these works of art.
Memory Vault
When Union Finance Minister, Nirmala Sitharaman presented her first budget in 2019, she chose to wear a Mangalagiri sari. Her bright pink Mangalagiri sari with a gold border complimented her holding the traditional bahi khata (an accounting notebook bound with red fabric).
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