Mirrors and motifs reflect a community’s identity
The rural-pastoral lives of communities in Kutch are reflected in their art and craft. So much so, that no mention of the region is complete without it. Kutch embroidery brings under its vast umbrella, several sewing techniques and embellishments. These include mirrorwork, or shisha kaam, stitches like pako, soof, hurmicho and aari, and several other forms of embroidery all practised by women in the Kutch villages.
The Making
Kutch embroidery is done on fabrics like cotton, silk, wool, and mashru (silk-cotton blend). Coloured threads, including floss silk, are used in the needlework with a predominance of chain stitches. Artisans also use mirrors, beads, seashells and sequins to create luminescent patterns. The motifs are inspired by flora and fauna, folklore and also include geometric shapes. Materials, motifs, and techniques vary among communities, but the underlying meaning and message binds the craft.
The Legacy
Kutch embroidery is also known as Kutchi or Kachchhi embroidery, and Mochi Bharat, though aari embroidery—its other name—has a separately identity. The roots of this can be traced back to the skilled artisans of the mochi (shoemaker) community. When the craftspeople received patronage from the royal courts of Kutch and Kathiawad, the intricate aari work began to flourish and be used on textiles and decorative items.