Kantha hand embroidery is a heavyweight in India’s textile tradition. It’s believed to have emerged in 18th century West Bengal, but it is probably, much older than that. Kantha, which is a running stitch, stands for quilting and keeping things together. This includes pieces of new or recycled cloth. It’s closely connected to the livelihoods of rural women, traditions as well as upcycling and reuse.

A written record of Kantha is found in Krishnadas Kaviraj’s book, Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita, authored half a millennium ago. In contemporary times, writer-photographer Patrick J Finn’s coffee table book, Quilts of India: Timeless Textiles, narrates valuable stories about this craft. Over time, Kantha evolved from being a household technique to adorning exquisite saris, panels and dhurries. Now it is found on handbags, dresses, jackets and appliquéd Kantha shawls.

Pratima Devi, daughter-in-law of late Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, became a patron of Kantha artisans. Revivalists Sreelata Sirkar and Shamlu Dudeja later elevated this domestic craft into a sought-after art form. Original Kanthas reflected personal lives, especially of women. A daughter would make a Kantha for her father, a wife for her husband and a mother for her baby. These remained dedicated personal pieces, until trade changed the narrative.

A written record of Kantha is found in Krishnadas Kaviraj’s book, Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita, authored half a millennium ago. In contemporary times, writer-photographer Patrick J Finn’s coffee table book, Quilts of India: Timeless Textiles, narrates valuable stories about this craft. Over time, Kantha evolved from being a household technique to adorning exquisite saris, panels and dhurries. Now it is found on handbags, dresses, jackets and appliquéd Kantha shawls.