An influx of artisans in the late 17th century from Afghanistan, Greece and Iran saw unique embroidery techniques introduced in Gujarat. The skilled Mochi community adopted the art form using an awl-like tool with a sharp tip called ari. Over time, they developed distinctive embroidery techniques to decorate fabrics. The chain stitch patterns were popular. They began to do silk-on-silk embroideries, and added mirrors, beads and sequin embellishments to their craft. The many communities in the region, including the Mochi, Meghwal, Ahir, Bhanushali, Rabari, Jat, and Mutwa, are recognisable by the kind of motifs and embroidery techniques they use. The Meghwals of Kutch use delicate motifs on patchwork and appliquéd mashru fabric. The Jat community adorns plain fabric with intricate embroidery. Mutwas embellish with mirrors and geometric motifs while the Rabari artisans embroider their tie-dyed wool skirts and shawls. What initially signified marital status or affiliation transformed into a symbol of an artisan’s skill. In the 19th century, the craft gained royal favour, with the rulers of Kutch and Kathiawad. Embroidered pieces were crafted as gifts for European court visitors. These would showcase indigenous designs of foliage and hounds. The most popular is a square cloth called chakla.