This exquisite handwoven Banarasi tissue saree is a testament to timeless craftsmanship, set against a soft ivory base that exudes understated elegance. The warp is pure silk, while the weft is crafted in fine silver zari. The body is adorned with 56,000 meticulously woven silver zari butis, complemented by delicate ruby meenakari flowers blooming along the vines of the border.
The pallu showcases a richly detailed wel kalam pattern, a classic Banarasi motif woven in the traditional tilfi kadwa technique––a revered weaving method integral to the creation of Banarasi sarees. This masterpiece is the result of seventy days of dedicated work by two skilled weavers, crafted with 700 grams of silver and 2.5 grams of gold.
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Artist
Haji Kamaluddin
Uttar Pradesh
Shri Kamaluddin Ansari, born on June 22, 1956, in Ramnagar, Varanasi, hails from a humble family of weavers. Due to financial constraints, he was unable to receive formal education. However, through informal learning and personal determination, he taught himself to read and write. At the young age of eight, he began weaving under the guidance of his father, the late Deen Mohammad, and soon mastered the craft. His exceptional skill and dedication quickly earned him recognition. In 2014, he was honoured with the National Award by the Honourable Prime Minister of India on the occasion of the first India Handloom Day. This milestone marked the beginning of a larger journey—over 230 weavers started working under his leadership. Kamaluddin Ansari is deeply involved in every stage of the weaving process. He personally experiments with various techniques to develop unique samples, which are then passed on to other weavers for production. His innovative approach and commitment to the craft were further acknowledged when he received the prestigious Sant Kabir Award, the highest honour in Indian handloom, on the fourth National Handloom Day in 2016. Through his artistry and mentorship, Shri Kamaluddin Ansari continues to uphold and enrich the legacy of the Banarasi saree, inspiring a new generation of weavers across India.
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The Craft
Banarasi Handloom
The broad idea of "Banarasi handloom" comes from several elements. First is the textile weaving tradition of Kamkhwaab or Kinkhwaab, where patterned silk is densely woven with metal-wrapped thread or brocade. Others include handspun khadi of 250 counts, zari woven cottons, jamdanis in cotton and silk, tankhas and heavy shimmering silk gyasers, kadua weaving, and more.
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