Telia Rumal is a distinct tie-and-dye Ikat technique. It's distinguishable from the commonly known Telangana Ikat by the process of crafting yarn-resist oil-soaked square pieces. These are treated with linseed oil. “Telia” literally means “oily”, and “rumal” means "handkerchief". The weavers use the double Ikat technique with specific colours such as red, black, and white. Essentially, the craft is an expression of geometric design mixed with folk motifs. The square pieces later inspired the weaving of saris.

Telangana Ikat follows the entire process of Ikat weaving, except for the use of oil. The colour vocabulary of Telangana Ikat also extends to other colours beyond red, white, and black. The weavers also include many contemporary designs challenging the traditional patterns in size (of patterns), colours, and kinds.  

Chirala, a small coastal village in Prakasam district of Andhra Pradesh (now a part of Telangana) was a flourishing local and international market, especially the Middle East and Southeast Asia. It was once recognized as a centre of Ikat weaving. According to the book, Saris: Tradition and Beyond by Rta Kapur Chishti and Martrand Singh, other districts gained more popularity. Nalgonda, Medak, and Mahbubnagar districts later went on to become well-known for Telia Rumal technique. The Nizam served as a patron, because northern districts of Andhra Pradesh were closer to Hyderabad. Pochampally in Nalgonda district soon became the production base for Telia Rumal fabrics. Over time, Pochampally weavers produced a wide range of handwoven fabrics. These included Ikat fabrics, saris, headscarves, ties, and others continuing the design of the Telia Rumal, but without using oil to treat the yarn. This is why Telia Rumal and Pochampally Ikat are referred to interchangeably.

Gajam Govardhan, a master weaver and recipient of many awards, is famous for the Telia Rumal weaving style. He has worked on contemporary interpretation alongside traditional work. He acted as a mentor to several of India’s top textile-conserving designers. Notable people include David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore, whose label A&T is known for its extraordinary Ikats woven in Telangana. A lime green and black sari with a houndstooth-patterned pallu is in the permanent collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

The Telia Rumal has seen many interpretations outside India in the form of turbans, head covers, and veils for men in the deserts of Africa for instance. It offers competition till today to forms of handmade Ikat in Indonesia and Japan.

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