The Ikat tradition of Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, known locally as Chitki or Pagdu Bandhu, is a globally acclaimed resist-dyeing technique where the yarns are tie-dyed before weaving to create stunning blurred, geometric or curvilinear patterns on the fabric. What makes this craft especially complex is that the patterns are dyed prior to weaving, requiring perfect alignment of threads on the loom.

In Telangana, Ikat is most renowned through the Pochampally cluster, where both warp and weft threads are resist-dyed—a method known as double Ikat, similar in technical prowess to the Patan Patola of Gujarat. In Andhra Pradesh, Nalgonda and Koyyalagudem regions produce vivid single Ikat sarees and fabrics known for their strong color contrast and stylized motifs like diamonds, flowers, birds, and temple forms.

Traditionally woven on pit looms using cotton or silk, modern iterations now include blends that cater to global markets. The process of mapping, tying, dyeing, drying, and then aligning the yarns on the loom is labour-intensive, often taking 10–15 days for a single saree.

The roots of Ikat weaving in this region go back over 200 years, with influences from Southeast Asian and Persian tie-dye traditions, possibly brought in through trade and migration. During the Nizam era, Pochampally emerged as a major weaving centre, supported by landowning patrons and later state-run cooperatives.

In 2005, Pochampally Ikat received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, formally recognizing the unique techniques practiced in Bhoodan Pochampally and neighboring villages. The craft is integral to Telangana’s identity, often referred to as the "Silk City of India" in textile circles.

Andhra Pradesh Ikat, though slightly less globally known than Pochampally, is equally rich in heritage. Here, families have been involved in dyeing and weaving for generations, making it not just a livelihood but a deep-rooted cultural practice.

In Pochampally’s oldest weaving lane, locals recall how Vinobha Bhave’s Bhoodan Movement (1951) brought national attention to the weavers when thousands of acres were donated to landless families, many of whom were traditional Ikat artisans. The village later became a symbol of rural self-sufficiency and design innovation.

In 2010, Pochampally was named one of the UNESCO World Heritage Weaving Villages in a shortlist prepared by textile researchers. One of the last surviving master weavers of double Ikat, Shri Narsimha Rao, was interviewed in 2018 about his role in crafting sarees that were gifted to global dignitaries.

Modern brands and cooperatives are now creating contemporary home decor and apparel from Telangana & Andhra Pradesh Ikat, carrying the heritage forward while ensuring sustainability and economic upliftment for the artisan communities.

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