Various parts of South India are known for jewellery with close-setting techniques. Local artisans use these to affix gemstones within gold pieces. Some examples include necklaces, earrings, armbands, and waistbands, including pieces like the Vanki ring, as well as pendants made with the image of Balaji Tirupati.

The technique became increasingly popular in the 18th century when gemstones came to be valued immensely. In India, it evolved from the Kundanavelai method, used for setting uncut diamonds in gold. In present times, it is mainly practised by goldsmiths of the Vishwakarma community of South India. 

The artists first cut and shape gemstones and polish them. The goldsmith establishes the setting’s foundation by marking small circles on a 22K gold sheet. Holes are then drilled according to the layout for placing the diamonds. The gemstones are positioned within a cup-shaped metal bezel, securely holding them in place. This bezel is soldered onto a gold backing plate and shaped using a hammer, with a sheet in between. This is so that no part of it is exposed to external light. The piece is polished after removing excess metal.

The designs often find inspiration in the architectural and iconographic patterns of South Indian temples. The reverse side of the piece is often adorned with engravings that sustain the story of the design seen on the top.

Global jewellery houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mellerio, and Chaumet married close-setting techniques with South Indian floral motifs into their designs for crafting pieces for Indian royalty in the 19th and 20th centuries. 

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