THE CRAFT
Rose Cut Jewellery
From Across Pan India
Pan India
Rose cut jewellery refers to a distinct diamond cutting and setting technique that dates back to the 16th century, named for its resemblance to the petals of a rosebud. In this style, the diamond is flat at the bottom and domed with triangular facets on top, culminating in a single apex. Unlike modern brilliant cuts, rose cuts do not have a pavilion (bottom facet), allowing light to enter only from the top and giving the stone a subtle, antique sparkle.
This technique became popular in Mughal India during the 17th century, where Indian jewellers adapted the rose cut to fit the aesthetic of traditional ornamentation, often setting them in kundan and enamelled settings. The diamonds, typically sourced from Golconda mines, were hand-cut with precision to maximize their flatness and reflective beauty.
Rose cut diamonds are often set in closed-back settings using 22K gold and natural lac, and sometimes enhanced with foil beneath to amplify brilliance. The understated luster of the rose cut makes it ideal for vintage, regal jewellery designs, including chokers, hair ornaments, rings, and brooches.
This technique became popular in Mughal India during the 17th century, where Indian jewellers adapted the rose cut to fit the aesthetic of traditional ornamentation, often setting them in kundan and enamelled settings. The diamonds, typically sourced from Golconda mines, were hand-cut with precision to maximize their flatness and reflective beauty.
Rose cut diamonds are often set in closed-back settings using 22K gold and natural lac, and sometimes enhanced with foil beneath to amplify brilliance. The understated luster of the rose cut makes it ideal for vintage, regal jewellery designs, including chokers, hair ornaments, rings, and brooches.
Heritage Value
Rose cut jewellery holds a unique place in both European and Indian jewellery traditions. While its origin is linked to Dutch and Belgian lapidaries, Indian craftsmen adapted and preserved the form with artistic excellence and cultural symbolism, especially under Mughal patronage.
In India, rose cuts were not merely adornment; they were considered auspicious and used in bridal jewellery, temple offerings, and gifts of state. Several pieces from the Mughal treasury and Hyderabadi nobility contain exquisite rose cut diamonds, often surrounded by uncut polki and rubies.
This legacy continued into the Rajput and Nizam courts, where rose cut stones were favored for their elegant, less ostentatious sparkle, in contrast to the flashier European cuts introduced later during colonial influence.
Today, rose cut jewellery is reviving globally, valued for its antique character, historical richness, and sustainable practice—since these diamonds are often reused from heritage collections or re-polished vintage stones.
In India, rose cuts were not merely adornment; they were considered auspicious and used in bridal jewellery, temple offerings, and gifts of state. Several pieces from the Mughal treasury and Hyderabadi nobility contain exquisite rose cut diamonds, often surrounded by uncut polki and rubies.
This legacy continued into the Rajput and Nizam courts, where rose cut stones were favored for their elegant, less ostentatious sparkle, in contrast to the flashier European cuts introduced later during colonial influence.
Today, rose cut jewellery is reviving globally, valued for its antique character, historical richness, and sustainable practice—since these diamonds are often reused from heritage collections or re-polished vintage stones.
Memory Vault
In Jaipur's historic jewellery quarter, master karigars recall how rose cut stones were once sent by merchants from Europe to Indian workshops, where they would be set into Mughal-style kundan pieces for clients in Delhi, Hyderabad, and Lucknow.
One celebrated instance is the Patiala Necklace (1928) commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, which combined rose cut diamonds with Burmese rubies and was considered one of the most extravagant jewellery pieces ever made.
Even today, families in Bikaner and Hyderabad treasure heirloom rose cut nose pins and maang tikkas passed down generations. Several Indian design houses, including Swadesh, are now elevating rose cut jewellery by combining it with uncut diamonds, emeralds, and meenakari to create modern heirlooms.
One celebrated instance is the Patiala Necklace (1928) commissioned by Maharaja Bhupinder Singh, which combined rose cut diamonds with Burmese rubies and was considered one of the most extravagant jewellery pieces ever made.
Even today, families in Bikaner and Hyderabad treasure heirloom rose cut nose pins and maang tikkas passed down generations. Several Indian design houses, including Swadesh, are now elevating rose cut jewellery by combining it with uncut diamonds, emeralds, and meenakari to create modern heirlooms.
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