THE CRAFT
Rajasthan Hand Embroidery
From the state of Rajasthan
Thar region, Rajasthan
The cultural influences around the sprawling Thar Desert in Rajasthan are numerous. This is because it's located on migratory routes from Central Asia, Africa, Afghanistan and Pakistan to India. The mix of cultural influences is visible in the region’s crafts, like the appliqué embroidery work by the Meghwal community. It's also known as Thari work. The sheesha (mirrorwork) embroidery from Jaisalmer, is particularly well-known.
Heritage Value
Embroidery forms a key component of the Meghwal folk culture. It can be seen on clothing worn or given during marriage and on other gifts. This style of embroidery can either be “pako” (permanent) or “kacho” (temporary). Geometrical patterns, with intricate chain stitch variations and herringbone stitch create pako stitches. The kacho embroidery is famous for its use of counted thread work techniques such as suf, kharek, kambhiri and mucca. The last uses gold and silver thread. The origin of mirror work is often traced in crafts studies to Persia in the 13th century, after which the craft made its way to India during the Mughal period. Islamic faith is known to encourage the use of mirrors in arts and craft, because they trap evil, and reflect bad luck away from the person. Similar beliefs are shared in Hindu and Jain ideologies, where sheesha torans (door hangings) were hung to repel evil spirits.
Memory Vault
The British Museum in London houses an outstanding example of Thari embroidery. This is an abochhini (wedding shawl) from the Thar Desert or beyond, in southern Pakistan. It's made of cotton and decorated with silk thread embroidery in chain stitch and sheesha work.
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