THE CRAFT
Pearl Pirohi
From the state of Rajasthan
Jaipur, Rajasthan
Pearl Pirohi is one of the many jewellery-making techniques that evolved in Rajasthan and helped redefine the jewellery culture of the state. This technique of pearl stringing originated in the Marwar region. Pearl Pirohi was originally used to embellish Rajasthani gajra bangles, a bejewelled version of the traditional hair accessory made with jasmine buds. Today it has evolved to become an accessorial part of precious jewellery like that of kundan and polkis.
Heritage Value
The process of pearl weaving begins with crafting an 18K gold mould called a ghat. This is followed by precisely placing diamonds on this form. Using a fine silk thread, pearls are handwoven over the gold surface in a symmetrical pattern. Being labour-intensive, it requires a great deal of finesse to emerge as a beautiful piece. The gajra bangles, for which this technique is usually employed, has a special place in Rajasthani culture. Among royal families, gajra bangles were considered an heirloom piece.
Memory Vault
Pearl pirohi is a building block of a precious or beautiful ornament that brings many precious stones, navratna (nine coloured) gems, and diamonds together to form a distinctive design. While pearl-strung pieces can stand-alone, their use in other exquisite jewels—the Sarpech for instance—the turban ornament in Nizami and Rajasthani jewellery has pearls strung as an inherent part of the design.
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