THE CRAFT
Pashmina Handloom
From the state of Kashmir
Leh, Ladakh, Kashmir
Pashmina is a distinct textile woven from the wool of the Changpa goat, a species native to Ladakh. The term "Pashmina" comes from the Persian word pashm (wool). Woven into the light and soft texture are the lives of the communities that enable its production.
Heritage Value
Pashmina shawls flourished under Mughal patronage. Akbar is said to have commissioned them for gifting and ceremonies. Later, during the colonial period, it became popular in Europe. Its global demand continues till date.
It takes several months to craft a genuine Pashmina shawl by hand. The wool is gathered by Ladakh’s Changpa tribespeople during the months of spring, when the goats shed their undercoat. Then, this raw Pashmina is sent to Kashmir, where artisans spin and weave the textile.
The finishing on the fabric comes in mainly two types. The first is Kani, where the design is woven based on a coded pattern called talim. A fully embroidered Kani shawl may take almost two years to complete. The second technique is the Sozni, an equally painstaking process that involves fine needle embroidery work.
Despite cheaper, machine-made variants available, the handmade Pashmina remains highly prized. The craft received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in August 2013.
It takes several months to craft a genuine Pashmina shawl by hand. The wool is gathered by Ladakh’s Changpa tribespeople during the months of spring, when the goats shed their undercoat. Then, this raw Pashmina is sent to Kashmir, where artisans spin and weave the textile.
The finishing on the fabric comes in mainly two types. The first is Kani, where the design is woven based on a coded pattern called talim. A fully embroidered Kani shawl may take almost two years to complete. The second technique is the Sozni, an equally painstaking process that involves fine needle embroidery work.
Despite cheaper, machine-made variants available, the handmade Pashmina remains highly prized. The craft received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in August 2013.
Memory Vault
A quality Pashmina shawl should be fine enough to pass through a ring, which also leads to its nickname, Ring Shawl. An early 19th century painting, "The Empress Josephine in the Park at Malmaison," shows French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte’s wife wearing what is largely regarded as a Pashmina shawl. It is believed to have been a gift from the emperor.
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