Open setting is a jewellery technique that embraces minimalism to highlight maximum gemstone brilliance. By reducing the amount of visible metal holding the stones, this setting allows uninterrupted passage of light, thereby enhancing the clarity, color, and luminosity of each gem. Rather than enclosing the gem, the metal framework subtly supports it—creating a visual effect where the stone appears to float or glow from within.

This style is often associated with modern elegance, yet its technical roots lie in centuries-old practices where artisans experimented with light play and transparency in jewellery. The open setting technique is typically seen in prong, claw, and minimal bezel settings, and is especially popular for solitaires, drop earrings, and contemporary bridal jewellery, where the stone takes center stage.

From design to finish, open setting requires extreme precision: the artisan must ensure both security and minimal obstruction, a balance achieved only through skilled craftsmanship. The final result is a delicate yet durable form that showcases the gemstone in its purest visual form.

While open setting has become synonymous with modern jewellery aesthetics, its philosophy is deeply aligned with classical Indian and Western traditions that emphasized light-reflective design. From the Mughal court’s open-backed Kundan settings that let light filter through uncut diamonds, to the European Georgian and Edwardian eras that used claw prongs for diamonds, this style reflects a timeless desire to honor the gem itself.

In Indian jewellery, the transition from traditional encrusted surfaces to open, more visible gemstone placements marked a design evolution—one that aligned with global standards while retaining indigenous flair. The craft showcases a harmonious blend of technical skill, gemstone expertise, and design sensibility, making it a favourite in both traditional and contemporary collections.

An heirloom ring where light dances through a solitary diamond… a mother’s minimal gold pendant framing a vivid emerald… these are the moments open setting evokes. The absence of ornate metal is not a lack—it is a deliberate space for light, for memory, and for presence.

Open setting pieces often become modern heirlooms, cherished for their timeless simplicity and for the way they let the gemstone speak. They are chosen for engagements, milestones, or new beginnings—where clarity, purity, and brilliance hold special meaning.

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