THE CRAFT
Nakkasi
From the state of Karnataka
Karnataka
This repoussé technique of South India is known as Nakashu elai or Swami elai. It has some similarities with the micro repoussage used in Western cultures. Nakash in Hindi means "carving". The use of the term swami, which means "master" or "lord" in Hindi, was used to categorise this style of jewellery. This was because of the abundance of jewels associated with the images of gods and goddesses.
Heritage Value
Archaeological evidence from the Indus Valley Civilisation helps understand the origin and potential connections of the Nakash work of Karnataka with a similar Greek technique. Portuguese traveller Domingo Paes described a 14th century throne adorned with nakkasi in the court of Vijayanagar in Hampi. The technique was noted in the crafting of large-sized sheets of silver, brass, and gold with relief work. These were then used to embellish temple doors, columns, lamps, and flagstaff.
As the repoussé technique was later adapted at a smaller scale, it eventually made its way into jewellery crafting. Artisans create relief decoration on a metal sheet by delicately punching and hammering from the back, for raised designs on the front that appear almost three-dimensional.
Additional elements include etching on the surface, which lends depth and intricacy to the artwork. The backdrop is deliberately left plain or gently beaten for a captivating contrast of textures. These intricate pieces were further enriched with gemstones, showcasing exceptional skill and meticulous attention to detail.
The designs in Nakash metalwork include motifs of divine beings, human figures, birds, and animals set amid lush foliage.
As the repoussé technique was later adapted at a smaller scale, it eventually made its way into jewellery crafting. Artisans create relief decoration on a metal sheet by delicately punching and hammering from the back, for raised designs on the front that appear almost three-dimensional.
Additional elements include etching on the surface, which lends depth and intricacy to the artwork. The backdrop is deliberately left plain or gently beaten for a captivating contrast of textures. These intricate pieces were further enriched with gemstones, showcasing exceptional skill and meticulous attention to detail.
The designs in Nakash metalwork include motifs of divine beings, human figures, birds, and animals set amid lush foliage.
Memory Vault
In 2020, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya museum of Mumbai inaugurated a new jewellery gallery. A few rare instances of Nakash work were a part of the inaugural show.
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