THE CRAFT
Mukaish
From the state of Uttar Pradesh
Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
A metallic embroidery technique, Mukaish or Mukayysh originated in Awadh. It's believed to have been in practice since as far back as the 3rd century. Once embellishing the garments of the Nawabs of Awadh, Mughal royalty, and regional aristocrats, the craft continues in contemporary fashion creations today.
Heritage Value
Mukaish appears two main patterns: fardi ka kaam and kamdani. Fardi ka kaam incorporates metallic dots to create motifs, while kamdani is used to create more elaborate designs. Mukaish embellishments commonly adorn Chikankari garments. They were once referred to as sachcha kaam (true craft) due to its use of pure gold and silver.
The process involves three steps. First is chapaayi, transferring a pattern onto the fabric. This is followed by takaayi or wire embroidery and ghutaayi, flattening and burnishing the embroidery. The artists usually stitch on the reverse side of the fabric, leaving only fine traces of the metallic thread visible on the front.
Apart from fardi ka kaam and kamdani, there are also more elaborate Mukaish jaal (lattice) on fabrics. Generationally trained artisans take several days or weeks to complete a single piece. Over time, the craft has evolved to include diverse patterns and the using other threads and metals.
The process involves three steps. First is chapaayi, transferring a pattern onto the fabric. This is followed by takaayi or wire embroidery and ghutaayi, flattening and burnishing the embroidery. The artists usually stitch on the reverse side of the fabric, leaving only fine traces of the metallic thread visible on the front.
Apart from fardi ka kaam and kamdani, there are also more elaborate Mukaish jaal (lattice) on fabrics. Generationally trained artisans take several days or weeks to complete a single piece. Over time, the craft has evolved to include diverse patterns and the using other threads and metals.
Memory Vault
In his book Dastan-e-Ghadar, 19th-century poet Zahir Dehlvi mentioned Alwar City Palace, where the maharaja would shower courtiers with rose petals mixed with lengths of silver Mukaish. The Mughal empress, Nur Jahan, is also said to have worn garments embellished with this metallic embroidery.
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