The iridescent quality of mother of pearl, found inside mollusc shells like oysters, mussels, abalone, and snails, makes it popular for decorating furniture and jewellery. Since the shells are delicate, it takes artisanal understanding and expertise to cut and shape them into desired forms. In India, artisans from Rajasthan and Gujarat practice this craft.

The origins of Gujarati mother-of-pearl work are unclear. However, it is believed that the technique was influenced by imported East Asian artefacts from the 12th century. Over time, craftsmen in Western India emulated these techniques, creating a variety of items that made Gujarat famous as its centre. Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama reportedly received a mother-of-pearl and gold bedstead from erstwhile Cambay. Gujarati mother-of-pearl items are exclusively made from this distinctive material. The material is sourced from sea molluscs, or combined with wood and metal.

In Jodhpur on the other hand, artisans first remove the outer dark layer of the shell and thin it by grinding. The shell pieces are then cut to the desired size using a metal cutter and attached to wooden objects. Slim brass strips are added, and a circular plate is fixed at the base. Sometimes, shells are embedded into brass items. The surfaces are levelled and polished for a glossy finish. Floral patterns are painted with enamel, outlined in black, and highlighted with gold paint. Finally, a protective varnish layer is applied.

Numerous intricate artefacts have been exhibited around the world. Examples include a detailed door mounted with gilt-metal pins securing mother-of-pearl pieces at the Asian Civilizations Museum in Singapore, and a mace at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

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