Kundala Velai is a type of jewellery style inspired by the grand architecture of South Indian temples. In this tradition, craftsmen create jewellery with close-set gemstones. The style flourished under royal patronage.

One distinct feature of Kundala jewellery is how the backside of each piece is engraved beautifully. Pieces are adorned with uncut diamonds, rubies, emeralds and pearls. Often known as temple jewellery, pieces made in this style were offered as decorations to deities.

The making of Kundala Velai jewellery is a rigorous process involving skilled craftsmen. Artists first use relief stamps to emboss designs on small pieces of gold. Then, these are decorated with granules and wirework. Artisans use a variety of techniques to create geometric motifs and nature-inspired designs. These techniques include repoussé, chasing, and soldering. The round or fan-shaped central pendant is the focal point of a piece, often decorated with dainty pearls along the edges.

Many specialists are involved in crafting Kundala Velai jewellery. The process includes designers, goldsmiths, engravers, enamellers, gem-setters, and experts stringing pearls or beads.

One of the common design elements is the intricate creeper pattern of the necklace, which is soldered with faceted gold beads. Precious and semi-precious stones are set carefully within the golden framework.

While it's unclear when Kundala Velai jewellery tradition first began, it's believed the skill has been passed down through generations since the 17th century. Vadassery, a small fishing hamlet in Kanyakumari still boasts over a hundred artisans practicing the original craft. Many jewellery houses across South India have created their own versions of traditional temple jewellery. They still use rubies and uncut diamonds in the primary motifs.

Director Mani Ratnam's two-part epic, Ponniyin Selvan, shows this form of ancient jewellery on actors like Aishwarya Rai Bachchan.

Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly available details. If you're interested in learning more, click here.