The Kolhapuri chappal is among the most popular expressions of Kolhapuri leather craft. The town of Kolhapur has, in fact, become synonymous with the colourful footwear. These are characteristically made in natural colour with a red pom or zari tassel on them. However, Kolhapuri leather craft today also includes an array of bags, belts, accessories and other products. All are crafted in leather using time-honoured techniques.

The origin of Kolhapuri leather craft goes back 800 years, to when mochis (shoemakers) began transforming animal hide. Usually, buffalo or bull hide would be used to create leather products. In the 12th century Deccan region, Chalukya rulers promoted this craft, and Shahu Maharaj was a notable patron.

Drawing inspiration from a rich repertoire of shoemaking tradition, the chappals got various names—Bakkalnali, Pukari and Kachakadi. They are named after villages surrounding Kolhapur. Those made with flaps (or ears) came to be known as Kanwali.

Kolhapuri leather work is dependent on an intensive tanning process. After this, skilled craftsmen cut, shape and stitch leather pieces using machine work and handcrafting techniques.

When the ‘Kolhapuri’ tradition was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019, it was for the chappal. This became the most well-known leather product from this town.

The story of the Kolhapur leather industry has been published several times. There has been special focus on the labour-intensive Kolhapuri chappal, and the challenges of local craftspeople. There has been a lot of research into why the Kolhapuri identity needs to be saved, and how the tradition can be modernized.

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