Despite having no mineral deposits, Khambat in Gujarat is reputed for its agate stonework. Primarily meant for export, agate stonework has now found a market within India, valued for its craftsmanship. Agates are semi-precious gemstones ranging from translucent to transparent. They also come in different colours, varying from milky to greyish.

The journal, In Contemporary Stone Beadmaking in Khambhat for World Archaeology (Taylor & Francis), notes that archaeological evidence of Khambati Agate points towards its presence in the Harappan Civilisation. The ancient agate mining and cutting industries, initiated by Baba Ghor, an Ethiopian merchant, thrived in the vicinity of Cambay (now Khambat) in Gujarat. Currently, the stones are sourced from the Rajpipla Hills, situated 200 kilometres away.

Skilled artisans specialise in specific stages of the work. These include stone-cutting, shaping, polishing, and drilling. Drilling is done both by hand, with singodi (buffalo-horn hammer), and drilling machines. The techniques employed vary depending on the density of each stone. Pale-yellow stones are fired in the bhatti (furnace) along with wood surplus to turn them red. Carnelian agate needs to be heated and dried due to its moisture content.

There are some popular agate items that fly off the shelves—both online and offline. These include jewellery, cat’s eye stone charm bracelets, tasbeeh dana (100-beaded rosary), bowls, toys, and home décor items.

The agate stonework of Khambat received Geographical Indication (GI) certification in 2008.

Famous Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta marvelled at the brilliance of agate during his journey to the Bay of Cambay, which was an important trade hub, four centuries ago.

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