THE CRAFT
Kalamkari Hand Painting
From the state of Andhra Pradesh
Srikalahasti, Andhra Pradesh
For over 200 years, this distinctive painting technique has thrived in Srikalahasti, a quaint town in Andhra Pradesh. Kalamkari is among the first forms of figurative textiles of India. It's origins can be traced back to the reign of Krishnadevaraya, a prominent ruler of the Vijayanagara Empire. It was later advocated by social reformer Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay. The term "Kalamkari" comes from kalam, which means pen, and ‘kari,’ which refers to craftsmanship. Artists use brushes and natural dyes on a canvas made of cotton, tussar, or other blended silks.
Heritage Value
The skilled artisans of Srikalahasti have preserved this ancient dyeing and hand-painting method. Their intricate designs narrate stories from mythological epics like Bhagavatam, Ramayana and Mahabharata. They mainly made scrolls, temple hangings and chariot banners. Kalamkari also adopted Mughal motifs during their rule as Indo-Islamic figurative textiles.
The exhaustive technique involves 23-25 steps of washing, dyeing, outlining, drawing and hand-painting. The artisans use pens made of bamboo, burnt tamarind sticks or feather palm sticks to draw the outline and a spherical pen with a flat nib to colour. These days, wall panels, stationery, photo frames, and bags are also painted. Even saris are illustrated with religious stories on the borders and pallu.
This technique was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2006.
The exhaustive technique involves 23-25 steps of washing, dyeing, outlining, drawing and hand-painting. The artisans use pens made of bamboo, burnt tamarind sticks or feather palm sticks to draw the outline and a spherical pen with a flat nib to colour. These days, wall panels, stationery, photo frames, and bags are also painted. Even saris are illustrated with religious stories on the borders and pallu.
This technique was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2006.
Memory Vault
Kalamkari: The Art of Hand-Painting by Lakshmi Krishnamurthy offers a deep dive into the craft. Ramachandraiah, a master craftsman from Srikalahasti, made a Guinness World Record for his exquisite art. Though the technique dates back centuries, most surviving historic Kalamkari art was made in the 1800s. This especially includes temple hangings.
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