The Ilkal region of Karnataka, once a centre of trade and commerce, is famous for its distinctive handloom saris. Some of these feature fine Kasuti embroidery and motifs like lotuses, elephants, and palanquins. Traditionally, Ilkal saris come in vibrant peacock green, parrot green, or pomegranate red colours with stripes and checks. Ilkal saris in a specific shade of crimson known as Giri Kumkum, worn by brides.

Ilkal saris are traditionally nine yards in length and woven on pit looms using cotton warp on the body, and artificial or pure silk warp for border and pallu. Pure silk elevates the heritage value as well as the price. Ilkal weaving is done indoors in weaver households as a domestic activity, which also involves the women of the family. It takes around seven days to weave one Ilkal sari. The warp of the body fabric and the warp of the sari pallu are joined with a series of loops known as "tope teni". The pallu is made of red silk with white striped patterns, and its ends feature several recurring motifs. These include koti kammli (fort ramparts), toputenne (jowar the millet), hanige (comb), and rampa (mountains). Surviving records suggest that Ilkal weaving began in the 8th century. Local chieftains and feudal lords from around Bellary town patronised the craft, making it popular in the region. Since then, it has reportedly transitioned through various ups and downs of patronage and interest.

The Sutra Santati: Then, Now, Next, an exhibition that commemorated 75 years of India through textiles featured some extraordinary handlooms. Among these was a grey-silver-ivory Ilkal shawl woven in mulberry silk. A part of the private collections of the Abheraj Baldota Foundation, this shawl was designed by master artisan Ramesh Ayodi. It featured additional weft counts in cotton and was woven in the tapestry technique, with yarn dyed in azo-free colours. A vermillion red horizontal line stood out as a distinct weaving pattern.

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