THE CRAFT
Leather Work
From the state of Haryana
Hisar, Rewari and Jhajjar, Haryana
Haryana is well-known for its leathercraft, particularly the jutti, or footwear. It stands out for its remarkable comfort and the use of locally cured leather. This unisex footwear is crafted by the artisans of Hisar, Rewari, and Jhajjar, each with their unique style.
Heritage Value
The artisans of Hisar are famous for their expertise in creating sturdy and long-lasting slip-ons, known as the desi jutti. These unadorned shoes are designed to endure farm work. They are available in two styles, munde (round-toed), and ghuni (pointed). The uppers are crafted from a thick hide and the heel is reinforced through appliqué work. The sole is also meticulously stitched together with layers of buffalo hide.
In Rewari and Jhajjar, tilla juttis are adorned with industrial zari and gold-thread embroidery on the uppers. Thin-soled juttis with elongated, curled toes are worn for special occasions. The tilla juttis are embellished with gold, silver, silk, or metal embroidery. They also occasionally feature beadwork. Like the desi counterpart, these also incorporate appliqué work and have layers of coloured leather.
Artists first draw a pattern on paper, then trace it onto leather and cut with a sharp knife. A thicker piece of leather is thinned at the edges for sewing. A stitch gauge is used to mark stitch holes, and glue adds support to the seams. The artists use a variety of tools to shape, embellish, and assemble each piece. They include mogri, palta, rampa, khabida, ari, khol, kalbut, marker punch, and an anvil.
In Rewari and Jhajjar, tilla juttis are adorned with industrial zari and gold-thread embroidery on the uppers. Thin-soled juttis with elongated, curled toes are worn for special occasions. The tilla juttis are embellished with gold, silver, silk, or metal embroidery. They also occasionally feature beadwork. Like the desi counterpart, these also incorporate appliqué work and have layers of coloured leather.
Artists first draw a pattern on paper, then trace it onto leather and cut with a sharp knife. A thicker piece of leather is thinned at the edges for sewing. A stitch gauge is used to mark stitch holes, and glue adds support to the seams. The artists use a variety of tools to shape, embellish, and assemble each piece. They include mogri, palta, rampa, khabida, ari, khol, kalbut, marker punch, and an anvil.
Memory Vault
The famous black jutti embroidered with golden wire was once only worn by the affluent higher classes. Now, the jutti has acquired democratic design influence and usage.
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