Indian crafted jewellery made from fabric, metal, and precious or ordinary stones is renowned for its craftsmanship. The different and distinct techniques display a strong cultural connection. The techniques are honed by various artisan communities from across the country while embracing global influences.

While fabric traditions need a different kind of “fabrication” compared to metals, there are outstanding examples where the primary traditions of jewellery making in India connect the pastoral with the royal. One can find connections like nature with geometry or intersectional ideas like architectural patterns reflecting in jewellery in fabric ornaments as well.

Crafted jewellery made from non-precious materials, including fabric, dates back to more than 5,000 years. During the Indus Valley Civilization, artisans used natural elements, metals with stones. Over the centuries, the techniques branched out to evolve with regional and cultural signs. Fabric jewellery, including Ajrakh, Patwa, jute, and threads, showcases diverse craft techniques.

Ajrakh, a block-printed textile from Kachchh, blends with silver, brass, and beads to form vibrant pieces. The artisans create colourful jewellery with yarn pom poms. Patwa jewellery features embroidered fabrics adorned with beads and sequins. Zari Patwa uses metallic embroidery thread. Intricate designs emerge from thread weaving and crochet. Raffia, a palm leaf fibre, and jute, a natural material offer eco-friendly jewellery options. Cowrie or small seashells have been used to make jewellery for centuries by coastal fishing communities. Jewellery made with glass, wood, metal, and bone beads have been a part of many tribal cultures in India. Papdi wood, an indigenous variety found in Indian forests is used for traditional crafts.

Then there is metal jewellery made of brass, an alloy of copper and zinc, known for its durability and golden sheen. In Rajasthan, jewellers use nine different types of gemstones, ruby, sapphire, emerald, diamond, yellow sapphire, pearl, hessonite, cat’s eye, and coral, to make rings and amulets believed to bring good luck.

Jewellery traditions span cultural, indigenous, ethnic, and regional influences, besides evolving to including some eco-friendly properties, using reclaimed glass, metal, and plastic.