THE CRAFT
Gara Hand Embroidery
From Across Pan India
Pan India
Gara embroidery is an exquisite and richly symbolic textile art form traditionally practiced by the Parsi-Zoroastrian community in India. This hand embroidery, often referred to as the “Parsi embroidery,” is characterized by its dense, intricate needlework, typically done on silk saris or borders, using silk threads in shades ranging from ivory, pinks, purples, and reds to vivid blues and greens.
Motifs in Gara work are heavily influenced by Chinese, Persian, and Indian iconography, thanks to the community’s long-standing trade links with China during the 18th and 19th centuries. Common motifs include chrysanthemums, peonies, bamboo shoots, cranes, pagodas, dragons, butterflies, and the eternal tree of life, each symbolizing prosperity, longevity, and harmony.
What makes Gara embroidery unique is its double-sided finesse, where the reverse is often as flawless as the front, achieved by techniques like satin stitch, stem stitch, and long-short stitch. Originally, the embroidery was done on imported Chinese silk saris, and later, Indian silks took their place. It is considered not only a craft, but a legacy garment, often passed down through generations.
Motifs in Gara work are heavily influenced by Chinese, Persian, and Indian iconography, thanks to the community’s long-standing trade links with China during the 18th and 19th centuries. Common motifs include chrysanthemums, peonies, bamboo shoots, cranes, pagodas, dragons, butterflies, and the eternal tree of life, each symbolizing prosperity, longevity, and harmony.
What makes Gara embroidery unique is its double-sided finesse, where the reverse is often as flawless as the front, achieved by techniques like satin stitch, stem stitch, and long-short stitch. Originally, the embroidery was done on imported Chinese silk saris, and later, Indian silks took their place. It is considered not only a craft, but a legacy garment, often passed down through generations.
Heritage Value
Gara embroidery has its roots in the 19th-century maritime trade between Parsi merchants and China. Chinese craftsmen created these embroidered silk saris based on the instructions of the Indian traders, blending oriental motifs with Zoroastrian symbolism. Over time, Indian artisans, particularly from Surat and Mumbai, took over the work, giving the craft a more localized identity while retaining its intricate character.
For the Parsi community, the Gara is more than a textile-it's a cultural heirloom worn during weddings, Navjotes (initiation ceremonies), and festive occasions. It often forms part of the bride’s trousseau, with some Garas dating back over 100 years and still preserved with care.
While the craft declined during the mid-20th century due to industrialization and fading community numbers, it has seen a revival in recent decades. Contemporary designers and artisans are now adapting Gara motifs into modern silhouettes like jackets, kurtas, dupattas, and clutches, helping keep the tradition alive for new generations.
For the Parsi community, the Gara is more than a textile-it's a cultural heirloom worn during weddings, Navjotes (initiation ceremonies), and festive occasions. It often forms part of the bride’s trousseau, with some Garas dating back over 100 years and still preserved with care.
While the craft declined during the mid-20th century due to industrialization and fading community numbers, it has seen a revival in recent decades. Contemporary designers and artisans are now adapting Gara motifs into modern silhouettes like jackets, kurtas, dupattas, and clutches, helping keep the tradition alive for new generations.
Memory Vault
One of the most iconic family-run preservation initiatives is that of Ashdeen Z. Lilaowala, a textile designer from Mumbai who has not only revived the craft through museum-worthy reproductions but also made Gara embroidery accessible through his luxury fashion label “Ashdeen”.
Many vintage Garas still survive as family treasures in Parsi households, some featuring rare motifs like the ‘Cheena Cheeni’-a scene depicting a Chinese man and woman facing each other, believed to symbolize balance and companionship.
In 2014, a rare Gara sari embroidered in the 1880s was displayed at the Parzor Foundation exhibition on Parsi heritage, supported by the Ministry of Minority Affairs. Several educational programs and textile revival workshops now actively include Gara embroidery demonstrations, making this refined art visible once more on global platforms.
Many vintage Garas still survive as family treasures in Parsi households, some featuring rare motifs like the ‘Cheena Cheeni’-a scene depicting a Chinese man and woman facing each other, believed to symbolize balance and companionship.
In 2014, a rare Gara sari embroidered in the 1880s was displayed at the Parzor Foundation exhibition on Parsi heritage, supported by the Ministry of Minority Affairs. Several educational programs and textile revival workshops now actively include Gara embroidery demonstrations, making this refined art visible once more on global platforms.
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