Guttapusalu jewellery work has roots in the fishing towns of Andhra Pradesh. Here pearls are cultured and intricately strung together similar to a shoal of small fish. The name comes from the Telugu words ‘gutta,’ meaning a school of fish, and ‘pusalu,’ meaning beads.

This craftsmanship thrived in the 16th century, under the patronage of the Vijayanagara Empire. These ornaments were traditionally crafted from gold, coloured gemstones and pearls. These exquisite ornaments were worn by brides on their wedding day. With time, artisans incorporated other elements, such as leaves and flowers.

The process begins by sketching the design. The artisans then layer it with multiple beaded chains and clusters of pearls. The artisans create distinctive patterns by stringing the pearls, beads and stones together with a bead weaving technique. These exquisite patterns hold symbolic meanings. For example, a pattern of alternating pearls and gold beads shows balance between spirituality and wealth. The central pendant of the artefact is usually grand. It's often adorned with precious gemstones like rubies, emeralds, or diamonds. There's another opulent variation with temple designs. Sometimes, the jewellery is complemented by matching earrings and a waistband. Necklaces may also feature motifs of a peacock and Goddess Lakshmi, the deity of wealth.

Traditional Guttapusalu designs remain popular even today. Modern interpretations incorporate coloured stones, crystals, and fabrics. Some famous fashion designers use this technique to embellish clothing as well.

On her wedding day, Bollywood actor Sonam Kapoor Ahuja wore a traditional Guttapusalu necklace. She paired it with a red lehenga (skirt) designed by textile revivalist Anuradha Vakil. This led to an overnight interest in Guttapusalu craftsmanship.

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