The textile legacy of Gujarat, especially those popularised by the Mochi community of Kutch, is known for its distinct nuances. Gujarati embroidery is characterised by unique patterns, techniques, vibrant colours, and embellishments. It has been a part of global fashion shows as well.

In the late 17th century, Gujarat witnessed an influx of artisans from Afghanistan, Greece, and Iran. They brought their unique embroidery traditions with them. The extremely deft mochi community adopted the art form using an awl-like tool with a sharp tip called ari. Over time, they developed distinctive embroidery techniques to decorate fabrics. Often, they used chain stitch patterns. Over time, they incorporated silk-on-silk embroideries, mirrors, beads, and sequin embellishments. All this helped establish unique visual identities.

With these variations, one can identify various clans such as mochi, Meghwal, Ahir, Bhanushali, Rabari, Jat, and Mutwa. The Meghwals of Kachchh use delicate motifs on patchwork and appliquéd mashru fabric. The Jat community adorns plain fabric with intricate embroidery. Mutwas embellish with mirrors and geometric motifs. Rabari artisans embroider their tie-dyed wool skirts and shawls.

What initially signified marital status or affiliation transformed into a symbol of an artisan’s skill. In the 19th century, it gained royal favour, with the rulers of Kachchh and Kathiawad endorsing it. After that, embroidered pieces were crafted as gifts for European court visitors. These would showcase indigenous designs of foliage and hounds. The most popular is a square cloth called chakla used for valuable gifts or decorative purposes.

On India’s 77th Independence Day, in 2023, Google featured a digital collage of intertwined fabrics, highlighting the ari embroidery from Gujarat. The Living and Learning Design Centre (LLDC) institute near Kachchh, founded by activist, reformer and artisan expert, the late Chandaben Shroff, features a permanent museum showing all embroideries of Kachchh. The displays narrate the living traditions of different communities.

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