Gudri embroidery work is typically done by the women of the Kalbelia community, a Rajasthani nomadic tribe. It involves simple running stitches to create colourful quilts. These are traditionally used to welcome guests at wedding ceremonies and as humble giveaways. These layered quilts, similar to the Kanthas of Bengal, are made with fabric scraps. They feature motifs and imagery with visual narratives from the life of tribals. The Kalbelia community is mainly spread across the Thar Desert, in India, Pakistan, and some regions of Afghanistan. In Rajasthan, this nomadic tribe can be found in places like Bundi, Ajmer, Udaipur, and Pushkar.

The Kalbelias have been practising the craft for many generations, so the exact origin of Gudri work is not clear. One unique feature of these hand-embroidered quilts is that they are reversible, with a different design on each side. They keep warm in the winter, while giving a cooling effect in summers, given the way the scraps are arranged. Gudri hand work is traditionally done on both cotton and silk. The artists embroider with colourful threads like acrylic wool yarns, and the quilt is embellished with mirrors. The traditional motifs have interesting names like chidiya ke pankh (wings of a bird), bacche ki mangar (a circle of children holding hands), bajubandh (armlet), and nariyal phool (coconut flower).

In 1972, after the Wildlife Protection Act was enacted, the Kalbelias had to give up their primary source of livelihood. They were traditionally snake charmers. However, they continue to worship snakes while crafts, dance and music form an intrinsic part of their lifestyle. In 2010, Kalbelia folk songs and dances were declared a part of the UNESCO’s Intangible Heritage List. The COVID-19 pandemic necessiated the Kalbelia Craft Revival Project, prodded by folk historian Madan Meena and Kota Heritage Society. They have been motivating Kalbelia dancers to take up Gudri embroidery as primary work.

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