THE CRAFT
Goldsmithing
From the state of Rajasthan
Rajasthan
Goldsmithing in Rajasthan is a celebrated tradition, deeply woven into the region’s royal and religious fabric. Practiced by generations of Sunar (Soni) communities, the craft spans a range of exquisite gold jewellery—kundan, jadau, meenakari, filigree, and engraved ornaments, each bearing intricate handiwork and local symbolism.
Artisans work with 22 to 24 karat gold, using ancient techniques such as casting, repoussé (embossing), granulation, and die-stamping, often combining gold with precious and semi-precious stones like rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and uncut diamonds (polki).
Major centres include Jaipur, renowned for its kundan-meena craftsmanship, Bikaner for its filigree work, and Udaipur and Nathdwara for devotional ornaments. From nose rings and maang tikas to chokers (aad), bangles (kadas), and armlets (baajuband), each piece reflects both opulence and cultural identity.
Artisans work with 22 to 24 karat gold, using ancient techniques such as casting, repoussé (embossing), granulation, and die-stamping, often combining gold with precious and semi-precious stones like rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and uncut diamonds (polki).
Major centres include Jaipur, renowned for its kundan-meena craftsmanship, Bikaner for its filigree work, and Udaipur and Nathdwara for devotional ornaments. From nose rings and maang tikas to chokers (aad), bangles (kadas), and armlets (baajuband), each piece reflects both opulence and cultural identity.
Heritage Value
Goldsmithing in Rajasthan flourished under the Mughal and Rajput courts, especially during the 16th–19th centuries. Jaipur, founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, became a hub for jewel artisans brought from Delhi and Gujarat, who were encouraged to blend Persian artistry with Rajasthani motifs.
Craft traditions like Kundan and Meenakari gained distinct regional styles—Kundan involved setting stones in gold foil, while Meenakari added vibrant enamel on the reverse, making the pieces reversible. These styles were often used in wedding jewellery, royal adornment, and temple gifts.
The craft is intertwined with social customs and religious rituals, particularly in communities like Rajputs, Marwaris, and Jains, where heirloom gold ornaments symbolize lineage, wealth, and spiritual protection.
Today, the tradition continues in artisan families and organized workshops supported by institutions such as Rajasthan State Handicrafts Development Corporation and Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.
Craft traditions like Kundan and Meenakari gained distinct regional styles—Kundan involved setting stones in gold foil, while Meenakari added vibrant enamel on the reverse, making the pieces reversible. These styles were often used in wedding jewellery, royal adornment, and temple gifts.
The craft is intertwined with social customs and religious rituals, particularly in communities like Rajputs, Marwaris, and Jains, where heirloom gold ornaments symbolize lineage, wealth, and spiritual protection.
Today, the tradition continues in artisan families and organized workshops supported by institutions such as Rajasthan State Handicrafts Development Corporation and Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.
Memory Vault
One of the most iconic examples of Rajasthani goldsmithing is the Kundan Haar worn by Maharani Gayatri Devi, a piece that showcased Jaipur’s kundan-meena style with Burmese rubies and uncut diamonds set in high-karat gold.
Jaipur’s Johari Bazaar has been a continuous center of goldsmithing since the 18th century, where families still use traditional tools such as the kil (tongs), kharal (mortar), and cheepi (engraving tools). Master craftsman Shri Ram Dayal Sharma, a Padma Shri awardee, is known for mentoring new artisans in preserving the 200-year-old techniques of gold foil setting and stone inlay.
The art has also been preserved in miniature paintings from Rajasthan, where queens and deities are depicted wearing jadau jewellery, offering a visual record of its timeless elegance.
Jaipur’s Johari Bazaar has been a continuous center of goldsmithing since the 18th century, where families still use traditional tools such as the kil (tongs), kharal (mortar), and cheepi (engraving tools). Master craftsman Shri Ram Dayal Sharma, a Padma Shri awardee, is known for mentoring new artisans in preserving the 200-year-old techniques of gold foil setting and stone inlay.
The art has also been preserved in miniature paintings from Rajasthan, where queens and deities are depicted wearing jadau jewellery, offering a visual record of its timeless elegance.
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