THE CRAFT
Bihar Extra-Weft Handloom
From Pan India
Pan India
The extra-weft weaving of Bihar is a unique style of weaving. Each motif is created by inserting an extra weft, or the bana to the default weft that holds the warp, or the tana, in place. This technique is used to decorate saris, dupattas, stoles, and home linen.
Heritage Value
The base fabric for handloom is created with the shuttle of the weft that intertwines with the warp. The “extra” weft is woven on to this base fabric using a spool of yarn. This technique is used to make the traditional Baavan Butti sari of Bihar, where motifs such as the peepal (tree), bull, lotus, stupa (monument), deer, and elephant are woven on the base texture using the extra weft method. A cluster of motifs are usually woven in the pallu of the sari creating a strong, visible pattern, and also along the length of its lower and upper borders. These saris usually come in reds, yellows, and parrot greens. Recent designs also introduced monochrome patterns.
Memory Vault
The Srijani Foundation of Patna, Bihar has made great efforts in the sustenance and continuation of Baavan Butti textiles. In earlier times, Buddhist families would gift daughters saris with 52 motifs for her wedding. Since the weaving style doesn’t have rules for placement or size, the artisan is free to be inventive herself as long as the number of repeats is 52.
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