THE CRAFT
Dongaria Handloom
From the state of Odisha
Nuapatna, Odisha
The Dongaria handloom weave is considered sacred by the Dongaria Kondh community. According to records, these people have been living in the Niyamgiri Hills in the Rayagada and Kalahandi districts of Odisha. A craft passed down generations, primarily among women, it is locally known (in Kui language) as "Kapdaganda". The common creations are embroidered shawl or length of cloth.
Heritage Value
Triangular motifs separated by florals dominate the Dongaria handloom. These can represent the tribal deity or the mountains and landscape of the Niyamgiri, both revered by the community. According to local beliefs, these imbue the textile with spiritual values. Dongaria Kondh women use the Kapdaganda as part of a three-piece ensemble. One piece is wrapped around the waist, one tied across the neck, and yet another piece worn like a stole around the neck. Men wrap the embroidered cloth around the waist, or wear it as a stole. The base of Dongaria handloom is coarse cotton woven on a pit loom. The women start embroidering from one end of the textile, stitching colourful threads in repeat patterns across diagonal lines. The threads can range from red and green to yellow.
Memory Vault
The women of the community traditionally learn the craft after puberty, while living in a dormitory for unmarried girls. During ceremonial dances, the Kapdaganda is also used by men to "propose" to women. To accept, they can drape the shawl, or reject it by shrugging it off.
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