THE CRAFT
Dank Polki
From the state of Telangana
Hyderabad, Telangana
A traditional jewellery-setting technique called dank polki originated in the city of Hyderabad. It was one of the many ways to encase polkis (uncut diamonds) in custom-fit sockets called danks shaped like cones. The technique has a nickname, samosa setting. This comes from the shape of the savoury samosa, a snack consumed throughout India.
Heritage Value
Dank polki setting flourished under the Hyderabadi Nizams, who offered patronage to a small but thriving artisan community. The technique is alive even today as younger generations of the community continue the practice, even though the workshops are modest. The process begins by meticulously selecting high-quality stones and setting them in 18K gold bezels. The danks, shaped like cones, are crafted from pure silver, using tools like hammers, files, and chisels. Each polki is attached to a dank using a special adhesive, which is a delicate and labour-intensive process. The arrangement is secured in place by 18K gold bezels. Ornaments with dank polkis surrounded by coloured gemstones are particularly popular among brides.
Memory Vault
Some of the most exquisite dank polki Nizami jewellery is on display at the Salar Jung Museum in Hyderabad. This collection includes a 19th century necklace embellished with 21 uncut Golconda diamonds weighing 240 carats and natural Basra pearls.
Disclaimer:
Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly
available details. If you're interested in learning more,
click here.