Chanderi is a traditional weaving technique from the eponymous town in Madhya Pradesh. The town is famous for generations of artisans, who continue to weave this soft, shimmering textile. The craft flourished in the early 20th century under the patronage of the Scindia royal family in Gwalior. Now, it has been reinvented by designers and is famous amongst both celebrities and consumers.

Chanderi textiles are woven in pit and jacquard looms, employing a dobby mechanism to create interlocking threads of warp and weft. A simple Chanderi sari typically takes three days, but a sari with zari work and intricate motifs may take up to fifteen days.

Chanderi textiles find mention in India’s mythological texts. According to researchers, the weaving tradition in the town can be tracked back to around the 7th century. Today, Chanderi textiles flourish in headgears as well as other pieces of clothing, but the gossamer Chanderi sari is the most famous. Traditionally woven using 200-count cotton yarn, the craft also extends itself to silk. Prominent motifs include buti, jaali, and chatai, as well as figures of birds and asharfi (coins). Many of these motifs were introduced under Scindia patronage.

Chanderi handloom is an integral part of the museum in Jai Vilas Mahal, a 19th century palace in Gwalior built by Jayajirao Scindia. One exhibited piece is the Shinde Shahi Pagdi (turban) of the family. It's a 50 x 50 metre turban crafted from cotton, which would be painstakingly hand-tied by the royal padadbandh (turban maker) on the head of the ruler.

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