THE CRAFT
Chamba Rumal
From the state of Himachal Pradesh
Chamba, Himachal Pradesh
The Chamba rumal (handkerchief) gained prominence thanks to royal patronage in the region. These are handspun and handwoven square pieces of khuddar (Khadi cotton) or mulmul (muslin silk). They are embroidered with folk tales, mythology, and vignettes of daily life.
Heritage Value
This needlework craft has traditionally been practised by the women of Chamba. They use dorukha, the double-satin stitch, to replicate a motif on both sides of the handkerchief. Conventionally, the designs would reflect the royal lifestyle or scenes from mythology. These include the Raaslila (the sacred dance of Lord Krishna and the Gopis), the Ashta Nayika (heroines in different moods), and chaupad (the game of dice). Other scenes can include pastimes such as smoking hookah or listening to music. The handkerchiefs are finished with a border two to four inches around the edges.
They come in vibrant colours like pinks, blues, ochre, dark green, and purple, marking special occasions. The art style shares kinship with the Pahadi miniature tradition and the wall paintings at the Rang Mahal of Chamba. Similar to these traditions, master artists would outline the composition and provide a colour palette.
The art form was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2007.
They come in vibrant colours like pinks, blues, ochre, dark green, and purple, marking special occasions. The art style shares kinship with the Pahadi miniature tradition and the wall paintings at the Rang Mahal of Chamba. Similar to these traditions, master artists would outline the composition and provide a colour palette.
The art form was certified with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2007.
Memory Vault
Freedom fighter and social activist, Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay, took the lead to revive this craft. In the 1960s, she set up the first Chamba embroidery centre, run then by acclaimed artisan Maheshi Devi. At the 2023 India Art Fair, the Delhi Crafts Council began an ongoing project for the sustenance of the Chamba Rumal. It exhibited "Portraiture in Embroidery", a series of sheer, reversible portraits. This was a unique showcase of artisans and patrons who helped the craft flourish.
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