THE CRAFT

Bhujodi Handloom

From the state of Gujarat
Bhuj and Bhujodi
Bhujodi was a predominantly Rabari village with a few families of Vankars, according to Archana Shah’s book, Shifting Sands: Kutch Textiles Traditions, Transformations. Bhujodi weaving is known for its extra-weft patterned woollen shawls and blankets from Kachchh, Gujarat. The tradition is also known for cotton saris dyed in rich, earthy shades.
Heritage Value
The extra-weft embellishment is done on a pit loom, using a manual throw shuttle. Artists use the four-paddle horizontal loom with a pit for the treadles. The paddles are manipulated by leg. Bhujodi patterns are created by physically lifting up the threads of the warp to insert the weft thread. It requires skill, is very time-consuming and similar to doing embroidery on the loom. The motifs include triangles, stripes, star shapes, and chevrons. According to local stories, the Vankars migrated to Kachchh more than 800 years ago. They invited the Marwada weavers of the Meghwal community in Rajasthan to settle near the border of Kachchh. Their weaving tradition has deep roots in their relationship with the pastoralist Rabari tribe, who travelled across Afghanistan to settle in Rajasthan. These influences are clearly visible in the aesthetic of the Bhujodi handloom. This tradition has evolved to include home linen, stoles, and dupattas.
Memory Vault
In 1976, four weavers from Bhujodi organised their first independent exhibition at Gajjar Hall in Ahmedabad. This was the first ever time weavers from Kachchh had met with an urban clientele. Today, jacquard looms are used to create similar extra-weft patterns aping the Bhujodi shawl. While the 2001 Bhuj Earthquake destroyed Bhujodi village, several NGOs, including Khamir, have worked to help the village and its artisans survive. They helped with funds and donations in the initial post-earthquake years.
Disclaimer:
Any information on this page is anecdotal and based on publicly available details. If you're interested in learning more, click here.
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