Bhagalpur Silk, also known as Tussar silk or Bhagalpuri silk, originates from Bhagalpur in Bihar, a region with a history of sericulture and weaving dating back over 200 years. This silk is primarily crafted from Tussar cocoons sourced from nearby forests in Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh. Known for its natural gold sheen, textured elegance, and breathable comfort, Bhagalpur silk is widely used in making sarees, dupattas, stoles, and fabric lengths.

The craft involves multiple traditional processes: degumming the cocoons, hand-spinning or reeling the silk, dyeing using natural and AZO-free chemical dyes, and handloom weaving by master weavers, many of whom belong to the Julaha and Tanti communities. The fabric is prized for its coarse yet lustrous texture and is often adorned with tribal, floral, and geometric motifs, sometimes blended with zari work for festive wear.

The silk weaving tradition in Bhagalpur has its roots in 18th-century Mughal patronage, evolving through the ages to become a symbol of East Indian textile identity. Its proximity to forests enabled easy access to wild Tussar cocoons, while skilled local weavers perfected a unique blend of simplicity and sophistication in design.

Bhagalpur silk weaving is recognized under India’s Handloom Mark Scheme and has been a significant part of government-sponsored skill development and cluster-based development programs. The Silk City, as Bhagalpur is often called, is home to over 30,000 weavers, with more than 200 cooperative societies and private players contributing to the local economy.

The craft has received global recognition, with Bhagalpur silk sarees and stoles being exported to Europe, Southeast Asia, and the Middle East. The silk also forms part of the GI-tagged product basket of Bihar, though formal GI registration for Bhagalpuri silk has been under process.

One of the notable revivals came through the Bhagalpur Mega Cluster Development Programme initiated by the Ministry of Textiles, which helped introduce modern dyeing units, design innovation, and direct market linkages. Designer Ritu Kumar and textile scholar Rakesh Thakore have both worked with Bhagalpuri silk in contemporary fashion collections, drawing international attention to the craft.

During the 2010 Commonwealth Games, Bhagalpur silk stoles were part of the official merchandise, showcasing India's handloom heritage. Local legends speak of the Balkrishna family of weavers, who have been working the looms for eight generations and continue to supply to some of India’s premium fashion houses.

The silk’s rustic charm and adaptability have allowed it to remain relevant across decades—from traditional trousseaux to modern boho-chic drapes.

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