Nagaland is home to 16 tribes. It's name comes from the Burmese term na-ka, signifying people with earrings. Each tribe treasures its unique jewellery that hold distinct cultural significance. Beaded jewellery serves as an identity marker for gender, status and class. Colours, too, play a meaningful role. Turquoise beads, for example, symbolise royalty and green ones are worn by the women of the Konyak tribe. Traditional neckpieces with beads and bones are believed to carry prayers.

The tradition of jewellery in Nagaland dates back to ancient times, when materials came from different regions. Beads were procured from Venice, China, and Nepal. Cowrie shells and conch were sourced from Bengal. Carnelian beads came from Khambat in Gujarat. In tribes where women traditionally did not inherit land, beads served as personal wealth.

The jewellery features vibrant colours, simple designs and a combination of different materials. These can be beads, feathers, shells, claws, wood, glass, bone, metals, horns and ivory, even boar tusks. These are hand-strung with locally made fibre cords, often intertwined with coins, creating exquisite accessories.

In the past, the beads used were significantly bigger, even as large shells doubled as clasps. Today, they feature more black beads and fewer strings.

Indian model and actor Andrea Kevichüsa showcased her home state Nagaland’s indigenous culture at the 2023 Cannes Film Festival. She wore an exquisite eight-string necklace with black, yellow, orange, red and white cylindrical beads.

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