Bandhel is a traditional jewellery-making technique known for its understated opulence and deep-rooted craftsmanship. Patronised by the royal families of Punjab, this technique involves the creation of jewellery pieces using a base alloy of copper and silver, which is then formed and layered with 22-karat gold. The technique gets its name from the Hindi word “bandhana”, meaning to tie or bind, which reflects the careful fusion of metals in the process.

What sets Bandhel apart is its use of gold forming over the alloy base, giving each piece the strength of structural metals and the surface finish of high-purity gold. Artisans then encrust the pieces with carefully set glass stones, imitating the aesthetics of traditional gemstone-studded jewellery but with a unique charm of their own.

While similar to Kundan in its visual richness, Bandhel is distinct in its technique and materiality. It is a labour-intensive process, with each layer requiring precision, temperature control, and hand-finishing to achieve the seamless blend of strength and luxury.

Bandhel jewellery emerged as a signature craft under royal patronage in Punjab, particularly in princely households that supported artisan guilds specializing in precious metalwork. The craft is a fine example of traditional innovation—where accessible materials like copper and silver are elevated into regal artefacts through gold layering and intricate design.

This method offered not only aesthetic beauty but also functional durability, making Bandhel jewellery suitable for both ceremonial and everyday use among the elite. It represents a unique intersection between northwestern India's metallurgy traditions and the growing influence of Mughal decorative styles during the late medieval period.

Though relatively lesser-known than other techniques like Kundan or Thewa, Bandhel retains its historical value as a regional luxury art form, practiced by skilled jewellery-makers in Punjab and parts of North India. Contemporary revivals of Bandhel are helping reintroduce this craft to newer generations looking for sustainable, heritage-rich ornamentation.

For many in Punjab and surrounding regions, Bandhel jewellery was synonymous with legacy—passed down through generations, often reserved for weddings and special family occasions. The warm glow of 22K gold, the glint of hand-set stones, and the comforting weight of well-crafted heirloom pieces formed the quiet rhythm of family ceremonies.

Older family vaults still hold Bandhel karas (bangles), chokers, and pendants, wrapped in soft cloths or nestled in carved wooden boxes. These pieces are more than adornments—they are memory markers of community, ritual, and belonging. As modern artisans revisit this technique, Bandhel is finding its way back into wardrobes not just as jewellery, but as living heritage.

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