THE CRAFT
Banarasi Handloom
From the state of Uttar Pradesh
Banaras, Uttar Pradesh
The broad idea of "Banarasi handloom" comes from several elements. First is the textile weaving tradition of Kamkhwaab or Kinkhwaab, where patterned silk is densely woven with metal-wrapped thread or brocade. Others include handspun khadi of 250 counts, zari woven cottons, jamdanis in cotton and silk, tankhas and heavy shimmering silk gyasers, kadua weaving, and more.
The tradition reached its heights during the Mughal era (1526-1717).
The tradition reached its heights during the Mughal era (1526-1717).
Heritage Value
The famed weaving community of Varanasi mostly comprises dexterous Muslims artisans. Naqshbandhs or pattern makers first draw intricate designs prepared on a small loom. These are carrived over by the weaver on the large loom. The original designs were drawn on sheets of mica with a steel pen. Later they were made on paper and placed within a grid. This meant each section could be separately moved to a loom to create extraordinary panels. Skilled Sufi weavers also migrated to Varanasi in the late 18th century.
Several people are involved in the process. The karigar or bunkar (weaver) would work under the grihast, the master craftsman. Another artisan who punches the cards as per the designs is called the patthakathi. Banarasi saris feature floral motifs, birds, Mughal inspired jaals, paisleys, kairi or mango-shaped designs, and checks and striped patterns. The Shikargah, a hunting forest scene is one of the famous elaborate designs.
An authentic Banarasi handloom sari has around 5600 thread wires with 45-inch width. Each piece needs more than two weavers working together, making it one of the finest handloom weaving traditions.
Other than saris, wall hangings, carpets, stoles, dupattas, throws and covers are also crafted by Banarasi weavers. Earlier, they would make large tents for armies and royal costumes as well.
Several people are involved in the process. The karigar or bunkar (weaver) would work under the grihast, the master craftsman. Another artisan who punches the cards as per the designs is called the patthakathi. Banarasi saris feature floral motifs, birds, Mughal inspired jaals, paisleys, kairi or mango-shaped designs, and checks and striped patterns. The Shikargah, a hunting forest scene is one of the famous elaborate designs.
An authentic Banarasi handloom sari has around 5600 thread wires with 45-inch width. Each piece needs more than two weavers working together, making it one of the finest handloom weaving traditions.
Other than saris, wall hangings, carpets, stoles, dupattas, throws and covers are also crafted by Banarasi weavers. Earlier, they would make large tents for armies and royal costumes as well.
Memory Vault
At the famed Great Exhibition of 1851 in London, inscribed Banarasi brocade pieces were exclusively curated by the museum for their exemplary design. In her book, Woven Textiles of Varanasi, Jaya Jaitly reminds us, about Sant Kabir, the weaver poet. Kabir believed in communal harmony, and the history of Banarasi handloom is incomplete without him.
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