Ashavali brocade is one of India’s oldest surviving weaving traditions, originating from Ahmedabad, Gujarat, and dating back to the 15th century. The hallmark of this craft lies in its intricate brocaded floral and geometric motifs, woven with gold and silver zari threads on vibrant silk bases. The motifs are often inspired by Persian, Mughal, and Jain architecture, including stylized lotuses, creepers, parrots, and temple friezes.

Unlike printed or embroidered textiles, Ashavali is woven on traditional pit looms using the extra weft technique. In this method, additional threads are manually inserted during the weaving to form ornamental patterns—each motif requiring separate graphing and meticulous control over the loom.

Modern Ashavali sarees are recognized for their rich borders, densely brocaded pallus, and kadhua-like butis, comparable in intricacy to Banarasi but unique in aesthetic identity. These sarees are luxurious yet lightweight, designed for ceremonial and festive use.

The Ashavali weaving tradition traces its lineage to the time of the Ahmed Shahi dynasty, when Ahmedabad was an important center of silk and zari textile production. The term "Ashavali" comes from Ashaval, the old name of Ahmedabad before Sultan Ahmed Shah established the city in the 15th century.

Ashavali brocade was once patronized by royalty and Jain merchant communities, with weavers producing textiles for temple rituals, bridal trousseaus, and festive attire. The weaving was centered in Raipur, Saraspur, and Dariapur areas of old Ahmedabad, where it continues today in small family-run units.

Though the craft faced decline during the industrial textile boom, it has seen a revival through the efforts of design institutions and craft-focused NGOs. The Crafts Council of Gujarat and National Institute of Design (NID) have helped archive traditional patterns and support innovation among young weavers.

Elder weavers in Dariapur recall how Ashavali sarees were often made to order, with motifs chosen by patrons and woven over months. In one recorded instance from the 1920s, a wealthy Jain family commissioned an entire wedding trousseau—12 sarees in different Ashavali motifs, each woven with silver zari and lotus-laden borders to match different stages of the wedding rituals.

A 2008 documentation project by NID captured the last few pieces of Ashavali wall hangings, once used in Jain homes during Mahavir Jayanti, woven with peacock and kalash (auspicious pot) motifs.

Today, only about 15–20 weaving families continue the Ashavali tradition in Ahmedabad, some of whom have been recognized by the Handloom Mark Scheme. The community is slowly integrating CAD (Computer-Aided Design) to preserve old motif libraries digitally while staying faithful to the handloom process.

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