Andhra Pradesh Jamdani is a delicate and ornate form of handwoven textile characterized by its inlay motifs woven into the fabric, typically crafted in cotton or silk. While the origins of Jamdani are rooted in Bengal, the weavers of Pedana, Uppada, and Venkatagiri in Andhra Pradesh have adapted the technique to reflect regional aesthetics and motifs, producing an exquisite variation that combines fine weaving with elegant, translucent textures.

In this technique, motifs such as paisleys, lotuses, peacocks, and temple-inspired forms are woven into the weft using extra threads without interrupting the base weave. This not only adds visual richness but also maintains the softness and drape of the fabric. Uppada Jamdani sarees, in particular, are known for being feather-light and for their use of zari (gold or silver thread) to accentuate designs.

Unlike printed or embroidered fabrics, these designs are woven directly on the loom, demanding both mathematical precision and artisanal memory. A single saree can take up to 2–4 weeks to complete, depending on complexity.

Jamdani weaving in Andhra Pradesh evolved during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, when Mughal-era weaving styles fused with South Indian sensibilities. Royal patronage from the Vijayanagara and Golconda courts, and later the British colonial zamindari estates, helped formalize Jamdani weaving as a sought-after luxury.

The Uppada cluster in East Godavari district is one of the most renowned centers for this craft. Recognized with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2009, Uppada Jamdani represents a fusion of Bengal weaving intricacy and Deccan design vocabulary.

In this region, weaving is often a family tradition, involving both men and women. The community's economy and social structure are deeply tied to loom-based livelihoods, and traditional looms continue to operate alongside contemporary interventions.

In the weaving hamlet of Uppada, it’s common to see weavers sitting side-by-side on floor looms, sharing whispered calculations for motif placements while listening to devotional songs on the radio. The tradition is oral and visual—no written patterns, just muscle memory and generational training.

During a 2010 field visit by the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, one elder artisan recalled crafting a specially commissioned Jamdani saree for the marriage of a zamindar’s daughter, woven over 45 days with silver-threaded mango motifs. The saree, weighing just over 200 grams, became legendary in the local community.

In 2023, younger weavers in Andhra have begun reviving lost motifs using AI-assisted mapping and NGO support, blending technology with heritage to ensure the craft’s survival in a changing world.

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